China Quietly Muscles In on the "Organic" Food Market

Upscale grocery chains like Trader Joe's and Whole Foods now import popular organic snacks such as edamame and canned staples such as kidney beans from China. That has made some buyers looking for pristine, all-natural food a bit skittish.

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Ms. Anagnoson said she doubts that produce grown in China is truly organic, regardless of the label. "It's really hard to grow something organic in a country that really abuses pesticides and where DDT is used," she said.

Organic produce imported from China carries the U.S. Department of Agriculture's organic logo and is certified by private firms authorized to approve use of the label. However, consumers who view that as a guarantee that the produce is pesticide-free are mistaken. The federal rules establishing the organic certification do not include routine testing for pesticide contamination.